When you get to Köln (Cologne in English) and start strolling the cobblestones, your first stop should be Peters Brauhaus.
Too early? Yeah, ok. Wander around; see one of the world’s great cathedrals, St Peter’s, often referred to simply as the Dom. Beautiful. Intriguing. Historic. NOT completely leveled in the Second World War – which sets it apart from 90% of Cologne.
Ok. Got all that. Beer time yet? No? Good god, man, I marvel at your patience! In the name of heaven, how long are you going to wait?
Right. Roman museums. Art museums. Do your own research, except I will mention the Museum Ludwig and the Wallraf-Richartz Museum, both of which have some wonderful 19th -20th Century art. If you’re short of time, I’d pick the second.
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| An early Van Gogh, although there aren't any 'late ones. He only painted for ten years. |
Walk around the old town (Altstadt), cover the waterfront, and glimpse the placid beauty of the Rhine River.
Thirsty yet? ‘Bout time. Art and history have their place, but you have to pace yourself. A man could die of thirst. Never heard of anyone dying of art… although there is Van Gogh…but even he didn’t kill himself with the sharp end of a paintbrush.
Back to Peters Brauhaus. In good weather, settle into a chair beneath an awning in the old market. The tent-sized, red canopies say Peters Brauhaus, just to tip you off and allay any confusion. Unusual to have the outdoor café on the market square when the restaurant is on an alley around the corner. But, it makes sense. Gives a taste of tangy sunshine.
You won’t sit there longer than a blink before a waiter asks what you want to drink. Simple answer: Beer. Before you can snap your fingers, another waiter waltzes by with a Kranz (wreath) of Kölsch.
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| filling a 'wreath' of beer |
Kölsch comes in a slender cylindrical glass. On the small side, but not to fret. Before you can see the bottom of your glass, he’ll deliver another, until you lose the power of speech, or your wife gives the waiter a glance that could stop a galloping stallion.
What’s special about Kölsch? I mean besides being one of the Germany’s most delicious species of beer? First off, Kölsch can only be brewed within Cologne, according to the 1985 Kölsch Konvention. Twenty-four Cologne breweries came up with the idea to resist outside brewers jumping onto the Kölsch brew-wagon.
Secondly, Kölsch is a top-fermented beer, almost as light colored as a pilsner. Also by convention, it’s filtered, with a specific gravity between 11 and 15 percent. Alcohol content sits at around 4.8%.
Thirdly, Kölsch has a smooth, rounded flavor, without the heavy bite of most German beers. Goes down easy and in some instances sports barely sweet undertones.
Yes, you can get Kölsch bottled, but I prefer it straight out of the wooden barrels, a gravity beer.
Peters is one of the remaining real Kölsch brewers, though the Peters Brewery isn’t based in Cologne, but in Monheim, about 30 minutes up the Rhine. The Konvention must have grandfathered the signers.
Beer isn’t the only thing on Peters menu. They have great lunches. When I was there, it was asparagus season and time for Spargel Soup. Want to make your own? Here’s an earlier post: http://stroudallover.blogspot.de/2012/06/spargel-soup-too-delicious-for-all-but.html
Lots of other good stuff at Peters. Extensive menu covering a host of local specialties, such as pork knuckle, and the ever-present schnitzel. I’m convinced Germans are not allowed to open a restaurant without serving potatoes. Peters is no exception. Outstanding Bratkartoffeln. Slices of potato fried with bits of onion and bacon.
A bit chilly for you? Feel like the full Brauhaus experience? Go around the corner to Peters Brauhaus Restaurant.
The building dates back to the end of the 19th Century, but Peters has only been there since 1994. You’d never know it. They’ve captured the dark, worn-wood atmosphere of an old-time German beer palace. Every time I’ve walked through the door, it’s been packed. Good mix of tourists and locals.
The building dates back to the end of the 19th Century, but Peters has only been there since 1994. You’d never know it. They’ve captured the dark, worn-wood atmosphere of an old-time German beer palace. Every time I’ve walked through the door, it’s been packed. Good mix of tourists and locals.
Ok, enough chit-chat. Sit back and quaff a glass of Kölsch or six. Drink up! Here comes the waiter with a full Kranz. You need to prep yourself for the next museum.
Mühlengasse 1
Köln, 50667
phone: +49 221 2573950
