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| The huge cathedral casts its shadow over the whole city. |
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| In front of the cathedral, street musicians play The Theme From The Godfather |
Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace, is only about an hour and a half away. Well, unless you have no GPS, and no map. Then you pick and feel your way along the byways, or pull out your sextant…whoops, only works at night. Sun shots are tough and even tougher when you’re driving on what in the U.S. would be a practice stretch at the Daytona Speedway.
Germany into France is seamless these days. The signage changes, the speed drops from blazing to scorching. Houses in the small towns seem a little more down at the mouth. Rolling green, wooded hills and miles of open green pasture, strewn with languid cows and sheep don’t change.
I got to the center of Strasbourg in under two hours, which immediately called for cold beer at an outdoor café. I like an Alsatian brew, Fischer. Fortunately, there are cafés aplenty, sprawling out in the plaza in front of the famous cathedral.
Quench your thirst and hustle over to the Tourist Information Center, in the same square as the cathedral.
First question: What do you like to do when you get to a new city? Take a tour? Pick out the best of the best from a guidebook? Pull out the mandatory list acquaintances you don’t even like forced on you?
Cast off that shadow of shame and doubt. Be bold.
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| Gugelhupf - something like a Bundt Cake, in every bakery window. |
I say, screw ‘em. I like to pick out a spot or two that appeals to me. If you said bars and outdoor cafés you’d be on the right track. But, also I have to give the deity his/her/its due. Sentences get so complicated when you do your best to appease everyone’s point of view. I should have added non-deity somewhere, but I do have my limits.
Back to Strasbourg and it’s cathedral. Can’t miss it. Center of the city. A single tower makes it look a little cockeyed, because they never got around to building the twin. Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg is the proper name, but its also called Strasbourg Minster.
Parts of the cathedral were begun in the early 13thCentury, but it wasn’t complete and open until a hundred years later. Very impressive Gothic construction, over 460 feet high, with huge flying buttresses and lace-like stonework. One of the many points of interest is inside, at the Astronomical Clock, where the twelve apostles parade before Christ every day at 1230. Get there early. The faithful and the gawkers press in like poor relatives at the reading of the will.
“Built” and “complete” are interesting terms. Places of worship have occupied the site of this cathedral since Roman times, including several previous Christian churches. Used to be the tallest cathedral in Europe until the Lutherans in Hamburg outdid themselves in the middle of the 19th Century and built St. Nicolas Church. Still Strasbourg’s Cathedral of Our Lady is still the 6th tallest church in the world. And you’re still walking where Roman sandals scuffed the stones.
Want a thirsty experience? Climb the 330 stone stairs…steep, narrow stairs…to the top. Worth the gasping trip for a beautiful panorama of the entire city. While you stroll above the rooftops, note all the graffiti from the Middle Ages. Etchings crowd around the arched doorways. Along the way, you’ll get a fantastic view of the flying buttresses.
Yes, there’s more to Strasbourg than a cathedral. There are museums and architectural wonders to keep you entertained, but I went to the heart of the old quarter, called Le Petite France. Lots of half-timbered buildings. Right on the canal and a perfect spot to find an outdoor café, bite into some lunch and sample some of the justly famous Alsatian wines or beers.
Most of the buildings in the old quarter belonged to tanners, who made use of the canal. The buildings date mostly from the 16th and 17th Centuries.
Passing out of the narrow lanes of Le Petite France, you won’t want to miss the long covered bridge and the old city towers. Near the towers, right on the canal is one of my favorite Strasbourg restaurants, L’Ami Schutz. Beautiful interior, yet cozy. Alsatian specialties galore.
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| The Covered Bridge, designed by the famous military engineer, Vauban, around 1681, gates within could be opened and the southern part of the city flooded for defense. |
Stroll the streets some more. Check out La Place Gutenberg, with a statue of the man himself and one of the most beautiful Renaissance buildings in the city, the former city-hall, built in 1585. By the way, although he was born in Germany, Gutenberg lived in Strasbourg for ten years or more, developing his printing press.
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| La Place Gutenberg |
Time to wander again, but not too far. Pick out a bakery. Eat some macaroons. Grab a cup of coffee. Feel more like a beer? Ok. No quarreling with that.
With the Cathedral tolling near six post meridian (meridiem in Latin), it’s time to find my car, pay the toll and figure out that taking the highway North means heading toward Paris, even though Paris is west of here. No GPS, no map? No problem.
