Here’s something from the dark corner of the wine cellar, Blanc de Noir. What the hell kind of grape is that? Not a variety of grape. It means white from black and refers to using dark grapes to produce white wine. Most of the time you see it on the labels of sparkling wines, many notably from the Champagne region of France.
But there are also lots of still wines that feature Blanc de Noir. In Germany, much of the time the B de N’s come from the Spätburgunder grape, the German word for Pinot Noir. How in the living swamp of Mesopotamia does Pinot Noir get translated to Spätburgunder? You’re about to find out. Spätburgunder means late Burgundy and refers to the first vines of Pinot planted in Germany coming from Burgundy. Also, Pinot matures late.
But, lots of other dark grapes can do the job. In this case, my favorite German weingut (wine grower and seller) Karl Dennhardt, used Cabernet Sauvignon and Lemberger for his 2010 Blanc de Noir. Pretty much everyone is familiar with Cab, but Lemberger?
Although not widely known by wine swilling Americans, Lemberger vineyards stretch from Austria to Hungary to Germany. It’s also grown in Washington State. It’s a late maturing, dark grape, usually sturdy and rich in tannins, but there is also a softer side to Lemberger and that’s what Dennhardt has tapped into.
But, let’s back up a sec. Black grapes, white wine? How does that happen? Most grape juice is white, but when you squeeze the grapes and leave the juice to soak in the skins, gradually the juice turns dark, absorbing not only the color, but also the tannin. So, guess what? If you want a white wine from dark grapes, you juice the grapes and separate the juice from the skins immediately.
In the case of Karl Dennhardt’s Blanc de Noir, you end up with an amazingly sturdy and flavorful dry white wine. A fragrant, almost yeasty nose kicks in, and your first sip offers notes of pear and plum. When I say notes, I don’t mean the whole damn song. Slow sip this dry white a moment and let the nectar float to the back of the throat. You’ll see what I mean. It’s full, yet crisp, and lacks that heavily acidic finish you find with many dry whites.
A note on temperature. Lots of folks think if a white doesn’t have frost on the bottle it’s not cold enough. Don’t believe it. Try it cool, but not cold, somewhere north of 60 ºF. If you don’t like it immediately, give your taste buds a little more time to adjust. You’ll start to pick up flavors you didn’t know were there. Another hint: If it’s not a sparkling wine and the bottle says ‘Serve Chilled,’ I advise you to put it back on the shelf. There’s something the vintner doesn’t want you to know and he’s using the cold temp to cover up the wine’s shortcomings.
Blanc de Noir pairs perfectly with avocados, salads light on vinegar, shrimp cocktail, fish, ripe fruit, and light desserts. Don’t despair if you can’t find the Dennhardt label. It doesn’t travel far. Find another German Blanc de Noir and enjoy the last days of summer, in a bottle. You’re gonna be sorry if you didn’t buy a couple of bottles. Nobody drinks just one.
