Showing posts with label Britain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Britain. Show all posts

The Rockfish! Nothing Fishy About These Fish and Chips




The Rockfish.  A perfect place for fish and chips in the little, historic seaport town of Dartmouth.

It’s downtown, facing the Dart River, and about a stone’s throw away.  The blue front, with large white letters looks small, but opens up when you step through the door.  White and bright, like cresting waves on a blue sea.


The craving for fish and chips is second only to the deep and abiding need for beer and bouncing breasts.  I mean for some people, not you and me, of course.  To satisfy the need for F & C, we asked the locals.  Everyone pointed in the same direction.

We popped into The Rockfish.  Cheery place, with nautical décor.  Beer and wine line the walls, along with other, less interesting things.  The cod and chips were wonderful.  Crisp, flavorful.  And, the service was top of the line.





It’s one of those places you come to eat, but stay for another beer or two.  Comfortable and conversational. The waitresses glow with efficiency and charm.  I like it that the kitchen is open.  Being a curious cook myself, I wandered back and watched the process. 



What makes The Rockfish fish and chips different from anyone else’s?  Dip the fish in batter, fry ‘em!  If only it were that simple.  First, the fish must be FRESH.  The Rockfish’s motto is spot on!



Which begs the question:  How can you tell if the fish are fresh?  Your nose.  When you walk into a fish restaurant and smell a bit of brine, but nothing ‘fishy,’ you’ve come to the right spot.  If the smell blasts you like a right jab from Mike Tyson, turn around and quick-step out.

Next, the batter.  It should cover the fish and become one with the fish, but not replace the fish.  Sounds straight forward.  I like the batter as a thin, crispy addition, with a crunch that adds to the joy of biting into moist, white fish.  The Rockfish did not let me down.  Their fried fish is exactly as it should be. Crunchy on the outside, moist within. Tasty. Cheers!  Bravo! 

Next the chips, or fries, as we call them in the Colonies.  Not thin.  Not thick.  As crisp as the fish.  There’s a secret, which I’m certain you already know.  Chips must be fried twice.  The first dip into hot grease brings the moisture to the surface, the second frying adds the crispness. Quite nicely done, Rockfish!

Now, do you add some catsup?  Oh, lads and lassies, ye have immense gaps in your culinary knowledge.  Vinegar.  Adds a bit of bite.  Cuts the grease.  Permits your taste buds to relax and smile with joy and settles your stomach.



But, not just any kind of vinegar!  My favorite (and the English standard) is malt vinegar. Rockfish also gives you an unexpected choice of lemon vinegar.  Superb!

What is malt vinegar anyway?  Well, anything that ferments can be taken a little too far and you end up with vinegar, right?  You’re got red and white wine vinegars, apple vinegar, and dozens of others.  Malt vinegar is made by malting barley.  Ok, clever man, what-the-fruitcake is malting???  You take fresh barley grain, soak it in water, allow it to sprout, and dry it with hot air.  From there, you make ale and let time turn the ale to vinegar.

In England, at the fish and chips take-aways, they used to serve fish and chips wrapped in newspaper, the chips sticking up in stalks of golden splendor.  Millions of people ate their fish and chips with no ill effects.

Long past.  The government, like all governments, found a solution to a non-existent problem.  Bureaucrats with time on their hands and a steady flow of the silver coin decided that newspaper print is toxic.  Now-a-days paper used to wrap the fish at fish and chips stands is approved for use in a sterilized lab room for infectious diseases.  Ok, I added that last part.

There are also ‘fish labeling’ laws to contend with.  Restaurants can no longer simply state ‘fish and chips’ on the menu, but have to name the type of fish, cod, plaice, etc.  So far, the bureau-dolts have not required first names and birth certificates.

But, at The Rockfish, no worries.  No newspaper wrapping.  Order cod or plaice, or whatever (by name).   Sit back and sip a cool, local ale, or a nice glass of wine.  It’s going to take a bit of time.  Nothing they serve is pre-battered, or frozen, or pre-cooked.  It’s fish and chips as they should be.  Perfect! 

Finished eating? I think we have time for one more beer and perhaps some dessert.

Lemon Cheesecake!  Sweet and tart!  Super!!!


Write the name down:  Rockfish!





Off the Beaten Path: The Bailiwick of Guernsey

35 miles from France, 70 from England

 


Relaxing by the shore


Ah, a trip to the islands.  I'm referring of course to the Channel Islands, and more specifically to Guernsey, the biggest of the group.  Guernsey, sitting in the watery crossroads between England and the continent, has seen more than its share of swashbucklers, Vikings, Normans, French, English, and Germans.  The name is derived from several languages, including the Old Norse word 'ey' meaning island.  The rough translatiion of Guernsey is 'Corner Island."

Closer to France than England (35 versus 70 miles), Guernsey’s a part of the British Isles. However, the relationship takes a bit of explaining.  Guernsey is officially The Bailiwick of Guernsey, a Dependency of the Crown, making it not a part of the United Kingdom, but a possession of the Crown.  Along with Guernsey, there are two more possessions of the Crown, The Bailiwick of Jersey (also a channel isle), and The Isle of Man, located in the Irish Sea.  Confused? I won’t bore you with legalities and political niceties.  Instead, ponder these idiosyncrasies: 

-       Guernsey prints its own money and stamps
-       Has its own parliament
-       Comes under the U.K. for its defense (little good it did in World War II)
-       Is not a member of the European Union, but is allowed free trade with EU members
-       Has its own language, a kind of Frankish Creole, spoken by only 2% of the population, but understood by 14%.  That’s pretty much like Latin and Roman Catholics, n’est pas?
-       The official language is English



A bit of modern history.  The Channel Islands are the only parts of the British Isles to be invaded and occupied during The Second World War. The Germans built substantial fortifications, most of which are still in place. Bunkers and other fortifications polka dot the seascape.  One wonders why.  After all, the Brits had already left the place to its fate.

In any case, the occupation was neither benign, nor innocuous.  People were arrested.  Citizens were shipped off to resettlement camps where they died. Executions were not rare.  The so-called ‘Jewish Question’ resounded.

A tour of the German headquarters, a cave really, shows a plethora of memorabilia, many of which are “Shoot on sight,” and “To be executed” orders signed by the German commander. 

Fortunately, most of the children and many adult islanders had been evacuated to England prior to the German occupation.  Unfortunately, some of the children were never to be reunited with their parents. 

The people of Guernsey still celebrate their liberation each May 9th, and one of the popular beers is aptly named Liberation Ale.

For a synopsis of the occupation, I suggest: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occupation_of_the_Channel_Islands



Ever heard of Guernsey cattle?  The milk is golden, from the high concentration of beta-carotene.  Unfortunately, with advent of commercialization in the U.S., pure Guernsey milk is tough to find.

The good, the gooder, and the best of Guernsey Island, in no particular order.  People on Guernsey are friendly.  Tourism depends on that, but even for a tourist town, Saint Peter’s Port (the Capitol.  Pop.18, 000) is clean, welcoming, and not a bad place to holiday.  Many seaside cottages are holiday rentals.


But, the main business of Guernsey is business, as in banking.  You might call it a smaller Switzerland.

You don’t need a tour guide to get around St Peter’s Port.  The castle and German headquarters, as well as the shopping areas, are an easy walk.  To venture beyond the city, an inexpensive bus ride, from the middle of downtown, roams the island.


Castle Cornet dominates the town and there are five museums within its walls, including the Guernsey Light Infantry (WW I) and RAF museums.  The castle has stood guard over the harbor for eight centuries.


The real pleasures are wandering St Peter’s Port lazy streets, sniffing the sea air, enjoying the scenic wonders of rocky coast, marinas filled with boats, and buildings festooned with flowers.  Don’t neglect to dodge into a pub to quaff Liberation Ale, and enjoy some fresh fish and crab. Hey, you’re on holiday!


Pubs are a pleasure



The justly famous Liberation Ale

Fresh Crab Sandwich

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